The fabric weave is the way that the warp and weft yarns are interlaced in a fabric. There are many decorative and artistic ways in which yarns can be woven together, but in their simplest form they criss-cross at right angles to each other.
The warp yarn/threads runs down the length of the fabric and are held still, under tension on the loom. The weft threads/yarn are then inserted horizontally across the loom and back, going over and under the warp threads.
There are 3 basic weave types:
- Plain Weave
- Twill Weave
- Satin Weave
Plain Weave
In plain weave the warp and weft threads cross at right angles, aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. On the next row the weft thread goes over the first warp thread if the previous one went under and visa versa. It is also called tabby weave, linen weave and taffeta weave. Plain weave fabrics are strong and hard-wearing. Variations of plain weave are Rib Weave and Basket Weave
Twill Weave
Twill weave is made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a “step,” or offset, between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.
Satin Weave
Satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back. It is not durable, as it tends to snag.
The satin weave is characterised by four or more weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, and four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interlacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats are the reason for the high lustre as light is not scattered as much when hitting the fibres in a plain weave, causing a greater reflection of light.
Some other common weave types used in furnishing fabrics are:
- Pile Weave
- Jacquard Weave
- Dobby Weave
- Tapestry Weave
See details for these under separate entries.